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If your boiler control system recognises a fault it is programmed to shut the burner down. The most common reason for shut down is through its flame sensor or photo resistor.
The reason your boiler has this safety mechanism is to automatically lock-down the burner to prevent further potential damage.
This system is referred to by boiler engineers as lockout. As well as acknowledging that there is a problem it’s a system designed to prevent additional problems such as damage to the boiler or central heating system plus most importantly your safety.
If your oil-fired boiler is in lockout then it will need to be reset, to restore function.
If you are not sure if your boiler is in lockout then look for the following...
Look for an error code on the oil boiler display or boiler control panel.
More commonly you will see a flashing red or an illuminated orange light.
The reasons for an oil boiler lockout vary a lot. Older boilers can tend to lock out more due to wear and tear and often neglected boilers can lockout because they have not been adequately serviced or maintained, it’s important to have your boiler serviced regularly, this will increase reliability and performance.
Another reason for a lockout could be a blockage in the fuel system that disrupts the oil feed pressure. This can be due to:
A blocked filter on your tank.
A failing fuel pump can reduce the required fuel pressure.
Sometimes you have simply run out of oil!
You can follow your owner’s manual steps to restart a boiler, remember: Do not try and exceed your own knowledge level. A persistent problem will probably require a professional solution.
If you think your that your boiler condensate pipe has frozen, the follow guide should help you get your boiler going again.
BUT if you don’t feel confident enough to follow this guide then you should contact us at H & H Oil Heating and Plumbing to help you.
But if your are stuck follow the advice below!
- In extreme cold weather your boiler may not start and show a fault, this could be because of a frozen condensate pipe. A dead give away is if the boiler starts to develop a gurgling noise.
- This is an easy to fix issue that you can perfoem. All you need to do is pour hot water over the condensate pipe. So put the kettle on!
- Once your kettle has boiled let it cool down. Let the kettle cool down for fifteen minutes or if your freezing top up the kettle with cold water. It’s important to do this so that you cut down the chances of burning yourself and also so that you dont crack the condensate pipe.
- Nine times out of ten condensate pipes freeze near to the ground, so simply pour the hot water over the pipe slowly.
- Now you have thawed the condensate pipe it’s time to reset the boiler.
- If the boiler fires up job done if not you may need to call us on 012389 851997
Remember! It may take several attempts before your boiler restarts, but if it doesn’t, you may need to call out a qualified boiler engineer.
This advice is for gravity fed boilers only
Make sure there's oil in your oil tank
Remove the front of the boiler.
Get a small spanner or Allen key, in most cases it's an Allen key.
You will now need to find the bleed nut, it's in the front of the boiler but may not be too obvious, At worst undo the feed hose to the pump. The feed hose is the flexible hose attached to the on/off tap
Fuel will begin to dribble out along with air, let it dribble until it's at a steady rate of flow. If you bleed into a bottle watch untill the flow has no bubbles in it.
Screw the hose or plug back in but not completely tight, just in until it stops dripping.
These is a red reset button on the burner, press the button and cross your fingers.
It didn't fire? Repeat the bleeding process, it can take a good number of goes. If you do find this is not working then check the filter.